One of our three steps in our interlock treatment is power-washing.  The power-washing of your interlocking brick is arguably the most important of the three.  You may be wondering why this is, considering the polymeric sand and the sealer are the obvious materials that really add value to the bricks.  The truth is if your interlock isn’t completely clean and free of dirt and grime before applying a sealer, you will end up sealing in those dirty spots for the next number of years.  Even though your bricks will be protected and will shine as though new, on further inspection you will notice the trapped in dirt molecules.  No amount of scrubbing or even power-washing at this point will remove this trapped in dirt.

A high-powered pressure washer is the first thing that you will require.  Often, the pressure washers that are sold for household use, whether electric or small gas washers, are not exactly appropriate for your interlocking project.  Washers of these types are designed for light- to medium-duty clean ups around a residential home.  These household power washers will definitely clean the surface your interlock.  However, there are several factors to consider before starting up your machine and wasting your time.

First, note the size of the area that you need to work on.  Many of these household washers only have the capacity to wash an area the size of a dot at a time, meaning you will have to go over every single part of every single brick to ensure a complete clean.  These washers are simply not high-enough pressure to effective wash a large area.  If you are working on a very small area (under 100 square feet), you may opt to go with this method, although it may take you a number of hours just for this small surface!  It is best to use an industrial strength washer on your interlock, as it covers a larger area and has stronger pressure, which will remove more unseen dirt and grime.

Second, consider the amount of weeds and sand that are stuck in the interlock joints.  Your household pressure washer was not designed to remove weeds from between the joints of your interlocking pavers.  You will find yourself spending twice or three times as long power-washing your interlock if you are also trying to remove weeds.    Low powered household washers will only push the weeds down between the interlocking joints further, making them impossible to remove by hand, with the washer or otherwise.  An industrial strength washer has attachments that are designed to remove sand and dirt from between the interlock.  Attaching a different washing tip to the power-washer wand that will spin, rotate and use force to lift weeds from between the interlocking joints.  Having a professional wash your interlock will save yourself the hours and hours you would spend using your electric household washer.

One of the most important things to consider is the consistency of power-washing.  When washing your interlock with a low-powered pressure washer wand and tip, you will notice that it is difficult to maintain a consistent height and length away from the interlocking bricks.  This is extremely important for the end result.  While you may not be able to notice when the interlock is still wet, by constantly changing the pressure being applied to the stone by being inconsistent with your washing, you will inevitably leave faint washing lines.  These lines show where the interlock has been cleaned thoroughly and the parts which weren’t given as much pressure as the others.  This is the biggest  benefit of having a professional company wash your interlock.  We use a circular power-washing attachment for your interlock which allows us to wash the entire interlocking surface at the exact same distance and pressure the entire way through.  This consistency in washing will leave your interlocking bricks looking like brand-new, without leaving any lines or a trace of being power-washed.

I have found out the long and hard way that using anything less than an industrial strength high-powered pressure washer will drastically affect the end results of sealing your interlock driveway or patio.  If you have not been exposed to pressure washing much, you may be mislead to believe that all power-washers are equal and will do the same job but this just isn’t true.  Check out our page on sealing your interlock driveway or patio, watch our video and learn how cleaning your interlocking brick can be done easily and effectively.

If you own an interlock driveway, walkway or patio, you may have noticed that your interlock has changed since it was laid. When interlock is first installed, it looks beautiful. The stones are bright and clean and the stones are flat and sturdy. At this point in time, you have no thought of repairs or maintenance in mind. However, after a year or two has passed, you may notice that your interlock is beginning to sag in places, becoming less flat.  Stones are beginning to shift up and down, making your interlock seem jagged.  Maybe you’ve now have weeds and ants infesting your bricks, which now makes your interlock driveway or patio look like a disaster.

What causes your interlock to get to this point? Whether your interlock was recently laid or has been installed for the last 25 years, all interlocking surfaces are subject to these damages and repairs. Read on and see if you are experiencing any of these common problems and what you can do to fix your interlocking.

If you have a garage or you park on your interlock driveway, you may notice that the weight of your car has begun to weigh down and lower the bricks in those problem areas. This is one of the most common problems I see when I am examining a customer’s interlock.   How does it happen? First, it is important to note that as water filters through the interlocking driveway, the sand and screening holding the interlock in place is gradually shifted and carried away.  This is natural and can be prevented by using good polymeric sand and by sealing the bricks.  However, an unsealed interlock surface combined with the weight of a constantly parked vehicle you may see drastic movements in your interlocking bricks. It isn’t uncommon to see a pair of dips in the interlock exactly where your 4 tires would have been sitting. Furthermore, if you have an interlock driveway and use your garage, you may find that the bricks closest to your garage have begun to sink in towards your home. The last few rows of interlocking are more susceptible to shifts since the bricks are held in place by fewer others.  By driving over that same portion at the top of your driveway, your interlock will undoubtedly succumb to the pressure and begin to cave in towards your home.

This type of disrepair is similar to one you may see at the opposite end of your driveway. If you have found that your interlock driveway has begun to sink similarly near the road and entrance to your driveway, you are likely dealing with the same problem. A weakened foundation and a loss of sand and screening has allowed for the pressure from your vehicles to make the interlocking bricks shift more than normal.

Another common problem that you may see on your interlocking driveway will happen if you have poor or irregular water draining from your eavesdrops, roof or anywhere else in your home. If there is a steady or constant stream of water pouring onto your interlock in the same area, take note. On top of rain and other precipitation from the weather, this extra water flow will accellerate the shifting and moving of the sand and screening underneath your interlock. You will likely see larger dips in the interlock, and possible see the entire surface buckle. Once the foundation beneath the interlocking surface is weakened, removed or shifted, the bricks on top have nothing solid to rest on and will not sit flat. Eventually, your entire interlocking will be rising and falling each and every way.

In any of these cases, it is necessary to remove all of the existing bricks and lay them aside. We will need to relevel the foundation of your interlock and ensure that it is graded with high-quality screening and at an angle that will allow for optimal water drainage. If there are other repairs to do your home other than your interlock (i.e. roof, eavesdrops, etc), it is a good idea to have them done as soon as possible.  If you repair your interlock but neglect to fix your leaking eavesdrops, you will be facing the same problem again next year.  Unfortunately, these repairs can be costly, especially for a larger area and for bricks with intricate patterns.  The best way to go is to prevent the damages from the start! By sealing your interlock driveway or patio and installing polymeric sand, you can prevent and delay some of these disrepairs. Prevention is the best way to avoid costly repairs and replacements down the road.

Click here for more information on how interlock sealing can benefit you.

If you’re an owner of an asphalt driveway and you have ever researched driveway sealing, there is no doubt that you have, at one point, been completely confused as to which type of driveway sealer was appropriate for your asphalt.  The truth is, there is a lot of misinformation being posted all over the internet about asphalt sealants.  Many seem to be or pose as experts in the subject.  If you have ever sorted through internet forums as I have, there are hundreds of posters with varying opinions.

The first discussion is typically about the base of the sealant.  What is the sealer made from?  There are several types of bases.  The most common, cheapest and easiest to get a hold of is water-based or acrylic-based sealers.  These sealants dominate the shelves at your local hardware stores.  Rona, Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, anywhere you can think of, will usually stock these sealants by the bucket-full, with several different brands.  Many of these sealers will have various promotions and additives advertised on their labels:  ”Airport-grade”, “Rubberized”,  ”Textured”.  The list goes on and on.  Who knew sealant could be so complicated?

Unfortunately, we are all consumers  being played by the big companies.  We can’t blame them for taking advantage of a market opportunity.  I’ve been caught myself and it lead me to find the truth.  Let me explain…Driveway sealing is an important part of home maintenance but is one that is often neglected.  This is largely because asphalt driveway sealing is a relatively small and specialized niche and there is not a lot of information generally available to the average home-owner.  With dozens of other household problems people generally do not know much about their driveway.  Never mind what asphalt sealers to use for it.  When searching through Google for driveway sealing information, each page seems to contradict the next one.  Every site claims that their driveway sealing product is the best and that the others are not.  Some swear by oil-based sealers (we do!) and some swear by acrylic-sealers.  Depending on where you live, there may be different laws or different types of products available, which only makes your asphalt sealing project more confusing.

These big hardware stores seem to have become aware of this lack of information out there for asphalt driveway sealing products.  Often there are local companies that provide these services, but are often small and are unable to reach a wide region of homes.  To the big guys, this is a good sign of low competition.  Water- and acrylic-based sealers are cheap to make and have no laws concerning their use and distribution (compared to oil-based and cold-tar based sealers).  The result is an easy decision to stock these asphalt sealants.  However, there is an important point that these companies did not think about: the end consumer and the end result.  The truth is that these sealers are cheap, ineffective and will actually do more harm to your asphalt driveway than good.  Let me explain what asphalt is and how it is created.

Asphalt is a great paving material and can last many years after being laid if sealed and maintained properly.  The sealant that you use is very important.   To understand what sealer will be best for asphalt, it is necessary to know what asphalt is made from.  Asphalt is fabricated from the remnants of petroleum and crude oils.  It is actually taken and scraped from the bottom of each barrel after other petroleum products have been produced and refined.  It is mostly made up of carbon, which explains asphalt’s jet-black colour.  This tar from petroleum and crude oil is then mixed with sand or gravel, called aggregate to form what we know as asphalt.  It is then used to pave roads, driveways and other asphalt surfaces.   The quality of the asphalt will depend on the grade of aggregate that it is mixed with.  Certain asphalt grades are best for roads and certain other grades are best for residential asphalt driveways.

Where am I going with this?  After asphalt has been laid, it will be black and flat.  The oils from petroleum and crude make the asphalt black, a sign of good health.  As the sun beats down on your driveway and as the ice and snow cover your asphalt, these oils are slowly lost and the asphalt will turn grey, become brittle and more susceptible to cracking.  This process is known as oxidation. An oil-based asphalt sealant replenishes and replaces these oils that are naturally found in the pavement.  The sealer we use, BlackMac, has been given the name “Liquid Asphalt”.  The reason being that oil-based sealers are absorbed by the asphalt, since it is the exact same material that it is made from, and almost becomes a new layer of asphalt.  Acrylic- and water-based sealers on the other hand simply act as paints and cover the top of the surface, never soaking in.  They will rest on top of the asphalt surface and will prevent it from expanding and shrinking.  By not being able to breathe, the asphalt will crack, heave and buckle, becoming ruined and beyond repair.

There are some states in the United States that have banned oil-based and cold-tar sealants that are typically used by professional sealers and therefore acrylic sealers are understandably more prevalent.    In Canada and other states where oil-based sealers are allowed, we still see with these cheap sealants are still very commonly being used. This is most likely because they are the only ones readily available for home use and home-owners are being fed the wrong information for their asphalt driveways.

Yes,  water-based and acrylic-based sealers are cheap.  And yes, it is possible that they will visually improve your asphalt driveway.  What you don’t know is that next year after a long winter, the water- and acrylic-based sealers will crack, chip and peel.  They will leave hundreds of small cracks darting each and every way, covering most of the surface.

Learning the hard way about acrylic-based and water-based asphalt sealants, I had to replace my entire asphalt driveway.  Once it came time to seal the new asphalt, I made sure to use an oil-based sealer and it is a decision I never regretted nor looked back on.  I have since become a professional driveway sealer and have amassed a lot of information on the topic.  It is important to understand how asphalt is formed to understand how to protect it and keep it in its natural form.

Read for more information on sealing your asphalt driveway. YSeal provides professional driveway sealing services in Toronto, ON.

As soon as a brand-new asphalt driveway is laid, it starts to break down. The sun, with its UV rays, beats down on the surface of your driveway. The constant exposure hardens and dries the asphalt driveway out, reducing asphalt thickness dramatically and encouraging cracking and potholes.

This process can happen in as little as just five years. This process turns the asphalt from black and healthy to grey and brittle. Having your driveway sealed on a routine basis provides protection from these UV rays, making it difficult to promote the oxidation process. Furthermore, a good sealant will provide protection from motor oil and gasoline leaks, daily wear and tear and extreme weather conditions.

Sealing your driveway will increase its useful life and boost curb appeal. Grey asphalt driveways are bland and an eye sore on residential streets and without proper maintenance face future replacement.

Call and book your appointment today! Don’t hesistate to bring us any questions you may have, we love to help!
(416) 436-7559 or info@yseal.ca

Q.) My car has been leaking on my driveway for months, and there are dark oil and gasoline stains everywhere. Will sealing my driveway help this?

A.) A properly sealed driveway will protect from these petrochemical leaks. Before sealing, it is recommended to remove as much excess oil or gasoline from the surface. These fluids do major damage to asphalt and interlock surfaces, as they accelerate natural breakdown. They include chemicals that interact negatively with the paving and can lead to major replacement costs.

If you believe that there is a significant amount of oil on your driveway, there’s a great product to help you remove it quickly. Here`s how: Go to your local hardware store and purchase a box of T.S.P. (Trisodium Phosphate) Powder. Be sure to follow all instructions and safety precautions before using.

Once applied and rinsed off, you should find that your oil stain has been reduced and will hopefully save your asphalt from major damage. To protect from further stains, sealed asphalt repels oil and gas to prevent stains from daily use. Each driveway is different, call us to receive individualized treatment

If T.S.P. is needed and used, our oil spot primer will work much better and your end result will be even more spectacular.

Remember, its not just oil and gasoline that are harmful to your driveway! Any motor fluid will cause damage, and so will any sprays or lubricants for your vehicle. If you are servicing your own vehicle, be sure to cover any parts of your driveway that you may be using. It is better to avoid a spill than to remove one!

Before any job, we always prepare any stains that may blemish the surface of your pavement. While nearly impossible to completely remove the oil from your driveway, you can still save your driveway from some of the damage. By removing as much excess as you can and subsequently applying our oil spot primer, you will be amazed at the difference it will make once freshly sealed.

Call and book your appointment today! Don’t hesistate to bring us any questions you may have, we love to help!
(416) 436-7559 or info@yseal.ca

General FAQ

Q.) Where is your business located?
A.) We are located in Toronto, ON. Servicing the G.T.A. Our service area includes: Ajax, Aurora, Beaches, Bramlea, Brampton, Concord, Durham Region, East York, Etobicoke, Guildwood, King City, Maple, Markham, Mississauga,  Newmarket, North York, Oshawa, Pickering, Richmond Hill, Scarborough, Thornhill, Toronto,Vaughan, West Hill, Woodbridge, York Region.

Q.) Do you guarantee your work?
A.) We stand firmly behind our work and if there are any issues or problems with our service, please notify us and we will take care of it to the best of our ability.

Q.) Will my landscaping or lawn be damaged?
A.) We take great care and go to any length to ensure that your grass, stones, or siding remains untouched by our asphalt sealant. You can expect sharp, clean edging all the way around your driveway guaranteed.

Q.) How do I make an appointment?
A.) Give us a call at (416) 436 7559 or email at info@yseal.ca

Q.) What methods of payment do you accept?
A.) Our preferred method of payment is cash. We also accept cheques and can accept Electronic Money Transfer through online banking.

Asphalt Driveway Sealing FAQ

Q.) Is there any preparation I need to do before you arrive to seal my driveway?
A.) We prepare the entire driveway prior to sealing for every single customer, but we definitely appreciate the help! If your driveway has become infested with weeds or grass, it is a good idea to remove them by hand and avoid using any products that may stain the driveway. We also prime all oil spots, but if you are interested in a thorough or a major clean up please notify us (we’re glad to help) or read below for more instructions.

Q.) My car has been leaking on my driveway for months, and there are dark oil and gasoline stains everywhere. Will sealing my driveway help this?
A.) A properly sealed driveway will protect from these petrochemical leaks. Before sealing, it is recommended to remove as much excess oil or gasoline from the surface.

If you believe that there is a significant amount of oil on your driveway, there’s a great product to help you remove it quickly. Here`s how: Go to your local hardware store and purchase a box of T.S.P. (Trisodium Phosphate) Powder [link: http://bit.ly/ip7ii0 ]. Be sure to follow all instructions and safety precautions before using.

Once applied and rinsed off, you should find that your oil stain has been reduced and will hopefully save your asphalt from major damage. To protect from further stains, sealed asphalt repels oil and gas to prevent stains from daily use. Each driveway is different, call us to receive individualized treatment

Q.) Why should I have my driveway sealed?
A.) Whether asphalt or interlock, your driveway is the most abused part of your home and its hard to notice it. It sits outside in the rain, snow, sun, and ice all year round and is abused daily by cars, gas and oil leaks and traffic. Over time, asphalt will begin to break down, turn grey and form cracks. Interlocking bricks become dull and worn out, dirty and loose. Both will eventually need to be replaced, and you should compare the costs of construction and replacement to sealing. Regular maintenance will help evade these costs.

Q.) What product do you use to seal driveways?
A.) We use BLACKMAC(TM), which is an oil-based sealant specifically formulated to preserve and protect existing asphalt pavements. It is designed to penetrate into and seal your driveway from the inside-out, unlike other rubberized or acrylic sealers which only “paint” the top surface of your asphalt. Blackmac will never streak, chip, layer, crack or peel and is far superior to any sealant that is available for individual purchase.

Q.) Can you seal my driveway if the weather is rainy?
A.) Rain will not affect an already sealed asphalt driveway. However, we cannot seal asphalt that is wet or damp at all. In the early spring and fall, be aware of overnight temperatures; freezing a freshly sealed asphalt driveway will interfere with the curing process.

Q.) How long do I have to wait until I can walk on my driveway after you spray?
A.) Though it is best to avoid walking on your freshly sealed driveway within the first 24 hours, it should be safe in 6 – 8 hours. Be warned, if not dried enough you may leave imprints or scuff marks on your driveway.

Q.) How often should I seal my driveway?
A.) It is recommended to seal your driveway every 1 to 2 years. We have many customers who return each year.

Q.) How long should I keep my vehicle off my driveway after the sealer is applied?
A.) It is best not to park or walk on your newly sealed driveway for at least 24 hours, the longer the better. If you are able to wait 48 hours, maximum curing will be made possible.

Q.) How long does it take you to seal my driveway?
A.) It takes approximately an hour or more to complete the cleaning, preparation and the sealing processes.

Q.) Are there any temperature constraints when seal coating a driveway?
A.) Daytime and Overnight temperatures should be at least 12˚Celsius (55˚Farenheit) to enable the sealant to settle properly. During the summer months this is rarely a problem, but should be noted in the sprig and autumn months.

Q.) Do I need to do anything to prepare for my driveway or parking lot to be sealcoated?
A.) Avoid hosing down your driveway within 24 hours of our appointment, as we need a completely dry surface to work on. It would be a great help to ensure that any vehicles or obstacles be place out of the way. Prior to sealing, we do a complete cleaning of dirt and weeds. If you feel that your driveway needs extra attention due to weeds and grass infestation, please notify us in advance.

Q.) Speaking of grass and weeds…is there anything I can do myself to prevent my garden from growing through my driveway?
A.) Grass and weeds are very powerful. They are powerful enough to break through the asphalt and the sealant. The only way to truly get rid of them is to take personal action. We recommend using an organic or natural weed killer that you can make yourself at home, avoiding you potentially damaging chemicals. A blend of White Vinegar (2L), Salt (1/2 cup) and Dish Soap (1 tablespoon) in a spray bottle should do the trick. NOTE: This spray is good only for weeds ON YOUR DRIVEWAY. Salt is very powerful and if sprayed in your garden can cause more damage than good. Use caution.

Q.) Will you get rid of grass growing up through my driveway?
A.) We will cut down and remove whatever greenery we can prior to sealing.

Interlock Driveway Sealing FAQ

Q.) Can you seal my driveway if the weather is rainy?
A.) In order for interlock to be sealed after being thoroughly pressure washed is for it to be completely dry. If there is any moisture at all remaining on or beneath the surface, after sealing is complete there will be a cloudy residue trapped beneath the sealant.

After interlocking is sealed, it dries in 1 – 4 hours. It is best if there is no rain within one day so that the sealer can penetrate the interlock and seal properly.

Q.) I’ve just had my interlock laid.  How long do I need to wait before I can seal my interlocking bricks?
A.) It is best to wait 3 to 4 months (90 – 120 days) before applying a sealant. This is to allow the efflorescence in the bricks to evaporate naturally. If this process is not completed and the surface is sealed prematurely, a milky white residue will appear beneath the seal.

Q.) What benefits will I get out of cleaning and sealing my interlocking bricks?
A.) Pressure washing and sealing your interlocking driveway every 2 years and your interlocking walkways and patios every 3 years prevents the surface from being damaged and worn out from daily use, fluid leaks, the environment and other factors. Our service will leave your interlock looking as bright as the day they were laid.

If you have any particular questions please do not hesitate to contact us:

Call: (416) 436 7559

Email: info@yseal.ca.